During my time in Lebanon last fall, I was able to see much of the small but diverse country. My final trip in Lebanon was to Castle Beaufort, just beyond the southern city of Nebatiyah, a bastion of Hezbollah support. I didn't exactly save this for last--in fact, I had abandoned the idea, until my roommate, friend and accomplice Tommy suggested we give it a go for the sake of a good adventure. It was a hard to reach spot, off the beaten path, literally off the map, but we tracked it down and made our way out there. It was a great decision.
Beaufort's location, overlooking the Litani River - From Wikipedia
We rode the minibus out of the Cola Intersection in southern Beirut, as was usual on any trip in this direction. There was only occasionally a bus going to Nebatiyah, but we managed to catch it with grand timing. If I'm not mistaken, it was the only bus going that day, and we would have missed it had we arrived a few minutes later.
Nebatiyah displayed very little to indicate its association with Hezbollah--maybe a few flags here and there, perhaps more conservative dress. Really, the difference between Nebatiyah and most Lebanese cities was that it seemed quiet, subdued, and desolate. Even Baalbak, with it's "in-your-face" Hezbollah presence to include banners, flags, and even t-shirts, was still a more lively and friendly town. It should be noted, however, that these other cities are also far better tourist destinations that intentionally create that atmosphere, while Nebatiyah is nothing of the sort due to its lack of any attractions.
Quiet little Nebatiyah had a few taxi drivers waiting around for a prospect, and we were it. We agreed on a price of twenty dollars to take us to Beaufort and back--an agreement that would seemingly be forgotten later, when the price suddenly doubled.
The driver took us to the castle, and agreed to wait an hour while we climbed around and explored. The first thing I noticed about Castle Beaufort was how well-preserved it was, against all expectations. The next noticeable characteristic is how well placed it is, high on a hill that is approachable from the northwest but sitting far above everything to the east and south.
The bulk of the castle during my visit--scaffolding covered the other side
A 1982 photo of the castle
Castle Beaufort has a fascinating, but rather cloudy history. It is supposed that it was first built by French Crusaders, hence the name--but possible that it was built on the foundations of earlier Arab conquers and Romans before them, due to the ideal location for defense and observation. After being used by European crusaders, it was then re-occupied by Arabs, later seized by Ottoman Turks, and remained in their hands until the 20th Century. This is when the history of this region grew truly tumultuous due to modern politics and modern warfare--in the years since the establishment of the state of Israel, the castle fell within Lebanese borders, but was quickly occupied by the Palestinian Liberation Organization, which was operating out of Lebanon during a large part of the Lebanese Civil War. The Israeli Defense Forces made frequent attacks on the castle during the 1970s, and much of its destruction is a result of this time.
The view looking southeast--toward Israel, Syria, and the Golan Heights
In 1982, the Israelis occupied the castle, and held it until 2000. After the Israeli withdrawal, a Hezbollah flag was flown over the castle for some time. Today, it definitely falls into their jurisdiction in Lebanon, and its possession is a small symbol of pride. It seems to offer no strategic value now, as it is probably more of a target than a stronghold. The Israelis supposedly detonated several explosives before leaving it in 2000, to render it useless--although I don't quite believe it worked. We also searched around for spent ordinance and dunnage like rifle shells, links, or cartridges, but I couldn't find a single sign of anything--nor anything, even trash, left over with Hebrew writing on it. I suspect the place has been scrubbed a bit.
Looking down into the river valley below--a long way down
Tommy and I explored the castle inside and out, top to bottom. Its insides were impressive--vaulted ceilings, stairways, a wide array of difference chambers and hallways. All were very well-preserved considering the history of the structure. From the outside, however, it can definitely appear to be a pile of rubble. However, its raw authenticity leads me to conclude that it may very well be the best castle I have ever visited, which I say having been to several in the UK, Spain, and Eastern Europe.
Well-preserved interior
Hallway inside
In Beaufort, the history is still in the air, and you are walking very literally in the footsteps of many people who shaped history. Nonetheless, the castle has scaffolding set up in many parts, and it appears a restoration is underway. Soon, it may be a more cleaned up, presentable site along the lines of a museum or a monument--something common in Europe that I think robs the castle of its soul, in a way.
On top, where the structure is much less intact
The experience was well worth the effort, something I recommend to any visitor to Lebanon. Just, as anywhere in Lebanon, be careful to stick to the deals you made with guides and drivers--our taxi driver demanded double the price upon returning us to Nebatiyah, and after we refused to give him forty dollars, he became livid and said he refused to take any of our money at all. I was all for this, as it made it a free ride, but in the end he had a twenty dollar bill stuffed in his hands as we walked away. Just another day in Lebanon.
The history of the castle can be found in much more detail if you find some books on Lebanese history or read the Wikipedia page (which had almost no information at the time of my visit). Guidebooks often give the place a little nod, but hardly any tips on where it is, how to get there, or how it came about.
Another interesting perspective on the castle is to watch the Israeli film Beaufort, a war drama--one review goes as far as to call it an anti-war film--about Israeli soldiers during their occupation of the site. In my opinion, it displays a very real aspect of war, which often seems to involve sitting in one spot, watching the horizon, and withstanding poorly launched mortar and missile attacks. But don't take my word for it--ask a few veterans of Afghanistan. See the movie trailer below:
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